Oh - yerh the original problem of a weak spark was my own stupidity, when reinstalling I didn't isolate the condensor lead from the dizzy body on the insulator, so I created a dead short.

A lot of frustration and perspiration, but it is more fun doing it yourself and not paying someone else to fit the gear. Keep watching for improvements!

Heres another little item I undertook, I got pissed with the doors not being able to stay open, so I bought two of those ball end spring loaded grub screws, M12, shaped a piece of 20mm plate to the same shape as the existing nylon door stay guides [17mm x 18mm], but a bit longer [35mm]. Drilled and tapped it M12 just off of center with the pin still in the same place. Fitted it so that the spring loaded ball would locate in the existing holes in the door frame, checked the required height to be firm seating and drilled and tapped a M4 grub screw through the side so that it would not move, reassembled and now I have doors that stay open by themselves and close with the same amount of pulling as you would a normal sedan.

Going through and replacing as many bolts and screws as possible with stainless steel. I've previously done this but changed out with nickle or zinc plated and they have not lasted, so stainless steel and all the problems, electrolisis, threads binding etc. but at least they dont rust.

Currently have on order the complete Left hand and Right hand front swivel assembles. Complete meaning every component from the half shaft through to even new wheel nuts.

We've contacted LaSalle's in the UK for the complete GRP (Graphite Reinforced Plastic) interior, Door trims (fronts and rear), dash, headlining, interior back body trim. This is on hold until we get some more information on the Import Duties to be applied, until then we have bought 2 sheets (4' x 8') of 2.0mm aluminium chequer plate and cut into the shape of the door trims and footwells, looks great. I bought a pair of Defender door close handles and fitted these, sets it all off very nice.

Also we recently found out that a large local company APM (Automotive Parts Manufacturers Malaysia) have started manufacturing parabolic leaf springs for OEM and a few aftermarket vehicles such as the Ford Ranger. So Im of to the factory to see if I can jerry rig something together for the Landy. Alternatively I now have the contact details for a distributor of the Rocky Mountain Parabolic springs in Queensland Australia, although I should commend TIC's for replying to my email and advising me of their distributors in Singapore, thank you. Still need to complete this with shockies and poly bushes. So with a bit more time we should be ready for a few adventures.

We still have to find and order a good do it your self Sound Proofing system to go with the black industial rubber carpet I bought, and maybe some kind of acceptable Overdrive, anything but a GKN, as unlike TIC's they dont bother to reply to enquiries, not much point having a Web presence and then ignor enquireies.

We have to do some more investigation into buying a winch, not impressed with the prices for available brands and models here in Malaysia when I compare with what I could buy them for in Australia, both countries import them, I think its just the companies selling them. So in the mean time I have extended the dumb irons by 174mm and put the old bumper back on, this effectively places the bumper 75mm forward of its original position. The purpose of this was to enable me to make my own winch bumper, drawings and pictures will come later, but this will now give me 2 more rows of bolting points, the original holes in the dumb irons, the new holes drilled for the existing bumper and another set of holes to be put in later at the front, more than strong enough. Another reason was this allowed for the winch to be lower slung and have the center of the fairlead at the center of the dumb irons. This affects the approach and departure angles, but you can't have every thing, and I feel a strong mounted winch is more important.

So far we have replaced.  
*new GLR front and rear drive shafts complete with uni joints,
*new GLR complete hand brake assembly,
*new GLR speedo cable and gearbox end connection,
*new clutch master and slave cylinder,
*new GLR complete exhaust system from the manifold right through,
*new drum brake linings and wheel cylinders,
*new GLR manual fuel pump,
*new GLR carburetor,
*reconditioned air intake piping,
*new GLR indicators, front park lights and brake light assemblies, fitted a reversing light system,
*various switches, interior light, oil pressure switch, water temperature sender,
*new GLR fuel tank sender,
*reconditioned with stainless steel and reupholstered the top and bottom dash assemblies.
*reconditioned and reupholstered a pair of 90 seats with the eight bolt bases,
*new GLR lap sash seat belts,
*new ball and tie rod ends to all the steering rods,
*a few extra vents in the wing tops and front wings to get a better airflow around the engine bay,
*various miscellaneous small body parts such as bonnet hinge rubbers, door locks, ignition switch, gear knob tops (yellow, red and gear stick), all new boots for the high / low range selector and hand brake,
*new top half of the drivers door and reglazed,
*new side window tracks and lock assemblies,